blooming
plant
of the month
poinsettia
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BOTANICAL NAME
Euphorbia pulcherrima
(you-FOR-bee-uh pul-CARE-i-muh)
COMMON NAMES
Poinsettia, Christmas
star, Christmas flower, Painted leaf, Lobster plant, Mexican
flameleaf, Mexican flame tree
DESCRIPTION
Poinsettias are leafy
plants, typically with dark green leaves topped with colored,
modified leaf bracts, which many people incorrectly consider to
be the flowers or flower petals. The real flowers are the tiny,
mostly yellow berrylike cyathia in the center of each colored
leaf bract.
COLORS
The most common colors are
reds and burgundies, but poinsettias also are available in a
range of pinks, salmon/apricot/peach, creamy whites and ivories,
and pale yellows, as well as a variety of marbled, spotted and
striped bicolors. New varieties and colors, including
red-orange, plum and lime green, are being developed every year.
Tinted and dyed poinsettias, in every color and color
combination imaginable, have gained favor with some consumers
over the past three or four years.
DECORATIVE LIFE
Poinsettias will last several weeks to several months, depending
on variety, interior conditions, care and maturity of the plants
at the time of purchase.
AVAILABILITY
These holiday plants are generally available only in November
and December although some hybridizers are experimenting with
year-round varieties.
IN-STORE AND CONSUMER CARE
LIGHT
Poinsettias require at least six hours of bright indirect
(diffused) sunlight every day.
WATER
These plants require
moderately moist soil at all times. Water them thoroughly,
saturating the soil completely, when the soil surface is dry to
the touch, then allow them to drain; do not allow pots to sit in
water. Water plants immediately if leaves/bracts begin to wilt.
TEMPERATURE
Average room temperatures
(60 F to 70 F) are required—65 F to 70 F during the daytime and
60 F to 65 F at night. Cool conditions prolong bloom time. Never
expose plants to temperatures above 70 F or below 50 F for
extended periods.
HUMIDITY
Poinsettias thrive in
humid air, so in dry interior environments, place pots on a
pebble tray
 or mist leaves frequently. Keep plants away from
drafts and the heat and dry air emitted by appliances,
fireplaces or ventilating ducts.
FERTILIZER
Plant food is not
necessary while poinsettias are in bloom, but plants purchased
early in the season can benefit from a high-phosphorous
fertilizer applied every two weeks.
CHALLENGES
ETHYLENE SENSITIVITY
Poinsettias’ sensitivity
to ethylene differs by variety. Those that are sensitive can
experience epinasty (downward bending of leaves and bracts, and
leaf stem twisting); leaf drop; and cyathia drop.
PESTS
These plants are susceptible to spider mites, mealybugs,
whiteflies, greenflies and scale if displayed in an environment
with too-dry air.
DISEASES
Botrytis
(gray mold) and root rot can occur with overwatering, too much
misting, poor air circulation and/or display in too-cold
environments.
LEAF DROP
Causes include too-low temperatures (lower than 50 F for
extended periods), exposure to hot or cold drafts, not enough
light, too dry air,
and/or overwatering or underwatering. Wrap
poinsettias well, in paper and plastic bags, when delivering in
low temperatures.
WILTING, FOLLOWED BY LEAF YELLOWING AND LEAF DROP
The cause is either
overwatering or underwatering.
EPINASTY (LEAF AND BRACT DROOP)The
plant was kept too long in a restrictive sleeve (always remove
shipping sleeves as soon as plants arrive in your store; the
longer a plant remains sleeved, the more its quality will
deteriorate). Other causes are root rot, due to overwatering, or
exposure to ethylene.
YELLOW OR BROWN LEAF EDGES The usual reason
for this condition is too-dry air and/or too-high temperatures.
BRACT EDGE BURN Nutrient imbalances
(too much fertilizer) and Botrytis (gray mold) can cause this
problem (see “Diseases").
CYATHIA DROP, FADING BRACT COLOR Causes include not enough
light, too-high temperatures, too-dry air and/or exposure to
ethylene.
GETTING
POINSETTIAS TO REBLOOM
Getting poinsettias to
rebloom can be a challenge and is a bit of a process, but it can
be done. Here are the steps to follow.
LATE MARCH OR EARLY APRIL
Cut plants back to about 8 inches in height. Continue regular
watering, and fertilize with an all-purpose fertilizer. By the
end of May, you should see vigorous new growth.
AFTER ALL
CHANCE OF FROST HAS PASSED
Place plants outdoors when night temperatures will no longer
drop below 55 F. Continue regular watering, and fertilize every
two to three weeks.
AROUND JUNE 1
You may transplant plants into larger pots—no more than 4 inches
larger (in diameter) than the original pots. A soil mix with
organic matter, such as peat moss or leaf mold, is recommended.
In milder climates, you may transplant plants into a
well-prepared garden bed that is rich in organic material and
has good drainage.
LATE JUNE, JULY OR AUGUST
Pruning may be required during the summer to keep plants bushy
and compact. Pruning must be done prior to Sept. 1. Keep plants
in indirect sun, and water regularly.
OCTOBER, NOVEMBER AND DECEMBER
For eight to 10 weeks,
starting Oct. 1, plants must be kept in complete darkness for 14
continuous hours each day/night, followed by six to eight hours
of bright sunlight daily. To achieve the required darkness, move
the plants to a totally dark room, or cover them with large
boxes. Plants also require nighttime temperatures between 60 F
and 70 F.
IMPORTANT: Stray light of any kind and/or
temperatures below 60 F or above 70 F can delay or entirely halt
the reflowering process.
Continue watering and fertilizing regularly. Carefully
following this routine should result in a colorful display of
blooms for the holiday season.
PURCHASING CHECKLIST
FLOWERS
Check that the cyathia (yellow-and-red berrylike flowers in the
center of the colored bracts) are fully developed but unopened
and displaying no pollen.
COLORED
BRACTS
Look for plants with fully mature, thoroughly colored and
expanded bracts. Make sure bracts have full, strong color (avoid
plants with too much green around the bract edges); are not
bruised or blemished; are not droopy; and do not have “burned”
or dried-out edges.
LEAVES
An abundance of dark, rich green foliage is a vital sign of good
plant health. Look for plants with dense, plentiful foliage all
the way down the stems, and avoid plants with wilting, droopy,
yellow and/or brown-edged leaves.
SOIL
Examine the soil in the pots. Avoid waterlogged soil,
particularly if the plant appears wilted; this could be a sign
of irreversible root rot.
PESTS
AND DISEASES
Examine plants carefully for signs of spider mites, mealybugs,
whiteflies, greenflies, scale and Botrytis (gray mold).
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fun facts |
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WHAT'S IN A
NAME
The
common name “poinsettia” was given in honor of Joel Robert
Poinsett (1775-1851), a gardener, botanist and diplomat from
South Carolina, who was the first U.S. ambassador to Mexico,
from 1825 to 1829; he sent these plants from Taxco, Mexico,
to Charleston in 1828, where he began propagating them and
sending them to friends and botanical gardens.
The genus name Euphorbia was given in honor of
Euphorbus, the Greek physician to Juba II, the king of
Mauretania (on the north African coast), around the end of
the first century B.C.
The specific epithet “pulcherrima” means “very
handsome/pretty.”
FAMILY
Euphorbia
is a member of the Euphorbiaceae (spurge) family.
Relatives include Codiaeum (croton) and
Stillingia.
HOME SWEET
HOME
Poinsettia plants are native to Mexico.
OLD WIVES' TALE
Contrary to widely circulated misinformation, poinsettias
are not poisonous to humans or other animals—unless ingested
in enormous quantities, and then only mild discomfort would
be experienced.
U.S. PRODUCTION
Modern-day production of poinsettias began in Southern
California in about 1909, when the Ecke family grew them as
cut flowers. Visit www.ecke.com for more information
on Paul Ecke Ranch or poinsettias.
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Some information provided by:
Botanica, by R.G. Turner
Jr. and Ernie Wasson
Chain of Life Network® ,
www.chainoflife.org
Complete Guide to Conservatory Plants, The, by Ann Bonar
Complete Houseplant Survival Manual, The, by Barbara Pleasant
Dictionary of Plant Names by Allen J. Coombes
Flowering & Foliage Plants, Book 2 by Debra Terry Graber/The
John Henry Company
Hortus Third, by Liberty Hyde Bailey and Ethel Zoe Bailey
Houseplant Encyclopedia, The, by Ingrid Jantra and Ursula Kruger
New House Plant Expert, The, by Dr. D.G. Hessayon
New Pronouncing Dictionary of Plant Names, by Florists’
Publishing Company
Paul Ecke Ranch; www.ecke.com
SAF Flower & Plant Care by Terril A Nell, Ph.D. and Michael S.
Reid, Ph.D.
Stearn’s Dictionary of Plant Names for Gardeners by William T.
Stearn
Photo courtesy of The John Henry Company
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